Osaka

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Osaka was my base in the middle of both of my trips to Japan. In September 2024, I came down from Tokyo on the Shinkansen on the twelfth and spent that evening eating my way along Dotonbori, then took day trips to Hiroshima, Nara, and Kyoto before catching the overnight ferry to Busan on the sixteenth. I came back with my nephew in July 2026. The first thing we went to see, on the night of July 15, was the Glico running man over the canal on Dotonbori. Between day trips, we spent the evening of July 18 in Shinsekai, the old neighborhood around Tsutenkaku tower, among its kushikatsu restaurants and giant signs, and the next day was Dotonbori again, Amerikamura, and a capybara.
Photos from Osaka
3 A street in Shinsekai on a July evening, crowded with people and hemmed in by outsized signs. On the left, a restaurant front is built up like a stack of wooden lattice boxes hung with paper lanterns; on the right, a kushikatsu restaurant has a huge, fierce-faced figure with blue hair above its entrance and a golden statue of Billiken, the grinning god of things as they ought to be, on its corner. Signs and banners in Japanese line both sides, and Tsutenkaku tower rises at the end of the street.
Shinsekai, the “New World” neighborhood, known for its kushikatsu.
A capybara standing with its front feet on the rim of a shallow indoor pool, stretching up to chew on a toy of wooden rings hung from a rope. A young keeper in a work shirt, face mask, and headset microphone stands beside it with a small orange and yellow parrot on his shoulder, and a white duck floats in the pool. Behind them are a painted jungle backdrop, a wooden railing and deck, and a shelf with a bag on it.
A capybara, a parrot, and a duck, all indoors in Osaka.
Triangle Park in Amerikamura, west of Shinsaibashi, on a July afternoon. People sit on the brick steps and benches of the little plaza in the shade of a big tree, and the street behind it is lined with secondhand clothing shops, among them 2nd Street and Closet Child, a video screen, and a takoyaki stand under a red Koga-ryu sign with pictures of takoyaki above it. A white van is parked at the left, and a utility box covered in graffiti and stickers stands at the right.
Triangle Park, the meeting place of Amerikamura, Osaka’s youth-fashion district.
