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Joe Steinbring

Kathmandu

A huge painted relief of a fierce, dark, many-armed god in a stone frame, with crowds around it.
Kaal Bhairav, where people accused of crimes were once brought to tell the truth.2022 · Photograph by Joe Steinbring
Static offline map showing Kathmandu in Nepal with a location pin.

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In September 2022, on a trip through India and Nepal, I flew into Kathmandu from Delhi on the sixteenth. The next morning started at Boudhanath, one of the largest stupas in the world and the center of Tibetan Buddhism in Nepal, and at midday, on a gray, wet day, I went to Pashupatinath, the great temple of Shiva on the Bagmati River. Only Hindus may go into the main temple, so everyone else looks across at it from the terraces on the far bank, above the cremation ghats. From there, I went on to Bhaktapur and Nagarkot. Before dawn the next day, I was back at the airport for a Buddha Air mountain flight along the Himalayas, and after a morning on the cable car up Chandragiri Hills, I went up to Swayambhunath, the stupa on its hill west of the city, and finished the day in Kathmandu Durbar Square, the old royal square: the courtyard of the Kumari Ghar, the house of the living goddess, and the carving of Kaal Bhairav, where people accused of crimes were once brought to tell the truth.