Kathmandu

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In September 2022, on a trip through India and Nepal, I flew into Kathmandu from Delhi on the sixteenth. The next morning started at Boudhanath, one of the largest stupas in the world and the center of Tibetan Buddhism in Nepal, and at midday, on a gray, wet day, I went to Pashupatinath, the great temple of Shiva on the Bagmati River. Only Hindus may go into the main temple, so everyone else looks across at it from the terraces on the far bank, above the cremation ghats. From there, I went on to Bhaktapur and Nagarkot. Before dawn the next day, I was back at the airport for a Buddha Air mountain flight along the Himalayas, and after a morning on the cable car up Chandragiri Hills, I went up to Swayambhunath, the stupa on its hill west of the city, and finished the day in Kathmandu Durbar Square, the old royal square: the courtyard of the Kumari Ghar, the house of the living goddess, and the carving of Kaal Bhairav, where people accused of crimes were once brought to tell the truth.
Photos from Kathmandu
3 The courtyard of the Kumari Ghar on Kathmandu Durbar Square, seen from below. Three stories of red brick rise on two sides, set with windows and balconies of dark wood carved in dense lattices, arches, and figures, around a carved doorway in the middle of the far wall. Paintings of green hills hang on the walls, a small red sign forbids photographs of the Kumari, and a few visitors stand under a tree at the lower left.
The Kumari Ghar, the house of Kathmandu’s living goddess, built in 1757.
Swayambhunath on a September afternoon. The great white dome of the stupa rises in the middle, topped by a gilded tower painted on each side with the eyes of the Buddha and a stack of gilded rings, with strings of prayer flags running down from its spire. On the right stands the gilded two-tiered pagoda of the Harati temple, hung with a red valance, and on the left a smaller whitewashed shrine holds a gilded figure in a niche. A few people cross the paved terrace, one with a small black and white dog.
Swayambhunath, beside the temple of Harati, the protector of children.
Pashupatinath on a gray, rainy morning, seen from the terraces on the east bank of the Bagmati. A row of small stone shrines with white, domed roofs and gilded finials stands in the foreground, and across the narrow river the main temple rises behind a white wall, its two tiers of golden roof above the town. Smoke drifts from the cremation ghats along the bank at the left, people with umbrellas walk the paths by the water, and houses climb the hill behind under low cloud.
Pashupatinath, the great temple of Shiva, from across the Bagmati.
