Nanto

Static map displayed.
Nanto, in the mountains of Toyama, takes in both the woodcarvers’ town of Inami and the thatched villages of Gokayama. On July 22, 2026, my nephew and I started the morning in Inami, on the street of woodcarvers’ shops that leads up to Zuisen-ji, the temple their craft grew up around. By midday we were in Ainokura, one of the gassho-zukuri villages of Gokayama, where I tried my hand at making washi, the local paper, from mulberry fiber, and looked out over the rice paddies, before going on to Shirakawa-go.
Photos from Nanto
3 A washi papermaking demonstration in Ainokura. In a dim workshop with a window onto green trees and the edge of a thatched roof, a papermaker in dark indigo work clothes smooths a freshly made sheet of paper on a wooden table, set with small pink, yellow, and green flower shapes. Two visitors lean in to watch, a man in a flat cap and a woman beside him, and wooden vats for the pulp stand behind the papermaker.
Washi, handmade paper, is one of Gokayama’s traditional crafts.
The approach to Zuisen-ji in Inami, a large temple of the Jodo Shinshu school, on a summer morning. A paved walk runs straight across the grounds between rows of white paper lanterns and poles hung with colored streamers, toward the main hall, whose enormous roof sweeps down almost to its doors. Lawns and gravel spread on either side, with smaller halls and tall trees to the left, and a man in a navy T-shirt walks along the lawn in the left foreground.
Zuisen-ji, the temple that made Inami a town of woodcarvers.
The old street that leads up to Zuisen-ji in Inami, paved in gray stone and lined with two-story shopfronts of dark wood and white plaster. The corner shop in front has a slatted upper floor and a carved wooden sign over the door, and outside it stand a tall carved wooden pillar, a stone relief, and small stone statues. Lamp posts hung with colored streamers and white lanterns run down the street into the distance under a blue sky.
The street up to Zuisen-ji, lined with woodcarvers’ shops.
