Fujisawa

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Enoshima is a small wooded island off the coast of Fujisawa, joined to the mainland by a bridge. I spent the afternoon of September 11, 2024, there, after a morning at Hase-dera in Kamakura. At the top of the island, I went up the Enoshima Sea Candle, a lighthouse and observation tower, for the view back along the coast, and walked through the Samuel Cocking Garden around it, where a Chinese pavilion honors Fujisawa’s sister city of Kunming. The street back down to the bridge is lined with food stalls, and with the line outside Asahi Honten for tako senbei, whole octopus pressed flat into a cracker.
Photos from Fujisawa
3 The Kunming Pavilion in the Samuel Cocking Garden, at the top of Enoshima. An open pavilion stands on a stone platform with steps, its roof of golden tiles sweeping up at the corners to a round finial, with carved and painted brackets under the eaves and pillars of red and of blue lettered in gold. Stepping stones lead up to it through low bamboo grass, and tall trees shade it against a deep blue sky.
The Kunming Pavilion, for Fujisawa’s sister city in China.
Asahi Honten on the main street of Enoshima, its counter crowded with people waiting under a blue awning. A banner along the top of the shopfront is printed with cartoon octopuses in headbands and waves, a tall sign at the left advertises its tako senbei, and pictures and prices of the crackers line the window, with the iron presses that flatten each octopus into a cracker inside.
Asahi Honten, where whole octopuses are pressed into crackers.
A display at a food stall on Enoshima: woven bamboo baskets lined with green leaves hold fried new potatoes, sausages on sticks, small fried fish, and fried oysters, each under a wooden sign with its name and price, 600 yen for the potatoes with butter, 500 yen for a coarse-ground pork sausage, and 700 yen for three large fried oysters, with ferns tucked between them.
Fried snacks at a stall on the way back to the bridge.
