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Joe Steinbring

New Delhi

An octagonal stone tomb with a veranda of arches and blue-tiled domes, partly under scaffolding.
The tomb of Isa Khan, a noble at the court of Sher Shah Suri, built in 1547 and 1548.2022 · Photograph by Joe Steinbring
Static offline map showing New Delhi in India with a location pin.

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New Delhi, the capital the British built between 1911 and 1931, grew up around a city that was already full of tombs. After a morning in Old Delhi, I spent the afternoon of September 23, 2022, at one of the finest, Humayun’s Tomb, the garden tomb his widow built for the second Mughal emperor, finished in 1572, and a model for the Taj Mahal I had seen in Agra three days before. Its grounds hold older tombs too, among them the octagonal tomb of Isa Khan, a noble at the court of Sher Shah Suri. The next afternoon, in the rain, I went to the National War Memorial, opened in 2019 beside India Gate, where a statue of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose had been unveiled under the canopy two weeks before.