New Delhi

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New Delhi, the capital the British built between 1911 and 1931, grew up around a city that was already full of tombs. After a morning in Old Delhi, I spent the afternoon of September 23, 2022, at one of the finest, Humayun’s Tomb, the garden tomb his widow built for the second Mughal emperor, finished in 1572, and a model for the Taj Mahal I had seen in Agra three days before. Its grounds hold older tombs too, among them the octagonal tomb of Isa Khan, a noble at the court of Sher Shah Suri. The next afternoon, in the rain, I went to the National War Memorial, opened in 2019 beside India Gate, where a statue of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose had been unveiled under the canopy two weeks before.
Photos from New Delhi
3 Humayun’s Tomb from its garden on an overcast afternoon: the red sandstone mausoleum, inlaid with white marble, rises on a broad platform lined with arched cells, its great central arch below a double dome of white marble topped by a gilded finial, with small domed kiosks at each corner. A wide path of red earth leads toward it beside a narrow stone water channel, between clipped hedges and dark cypresses, and a few visitors walk ahead.
Humayun’s Tomb, finished in 1572, the garden tomb that the Taj Mahal followed.
Looking out from the platform of Humayun’s Tomb over its garden on a gray afternoon. Two tall palms frame the view. Between them stands the Barber’s Tomb, a square red sandstone tomb with arched niches and two small blue-tiled kiosks under a weathered dome, on a low stone platform in the lawns, and beyond the trees rises the bright blue-tiled dome of the Nila Gumbad. Birds circle in the hazy sky.
The Barber’s Tomb in Humayun’s garden, with the blue dome of the Nila Gumbad beyond.
The National War Memorial in the rain, looking toward India Gate. On the wet paving in front stands a bronze statue of a soldier with his back to the camera, among potted plants, with a mother and child beside it. Behind it rises a tall red stone column topped by the lions of the national emblem, and beyond a hedge stands India Gate, its stone arch framing the dark statue of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose under the canopy. Four flags fly on tall poles: the Indian flag twice, and the flags of the air force and the army, all reflected in the puddles.
The National War Memorial, with India Gate and the new statue of Netaji behind it.
