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Joe Steinbring

Old Delhi

A black marble platform strewn with marigold garlands, a lantern at one end, in a walled lawn.
Raj Ghat, where Gandhi was cremated on January 31, 1948.2022 · Photograph by Joe Steinbring
Static offline map showing Old Delhi in India with a location pin.

Old Delhi is Shahjahanabad, the walled city Shah Jahan built in the seventeenth century, when he moved the Mughal capital from Agra. I spent the morning of September 23, 2022, there, back from Jaipur. It started on Chandni Chowk, the old city’s main street, across from the Red Fort, where the red sandstone Lal Mandir, the oldest Jain temple in Delhi, stands at its head. Around midday, I went to Raj Ghat, by the Yamuna just outside the old walls, where Gandhi was cremated in 1948, and nearby, a pair of cadets asked for a picture with me under a statue of him. Early the next morning, I passed a bullock cart in the market streets of Karol Bagh, west of the old city.

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  • A white bullock pulls a cart across a wet street of shops, a man standing on the cart.

    Early morning in Karol Bagh, west of the old city.

    2022 · Photograph by Joe Steinbring

  • Me between two cadets in khaki uniforms in front of a bronze statue of Gandhi with a staff.

    Two cadets wanted a picture with me, under a statue of Gandhi.

    2022 · Photograph by Joe Steinbring

  • A bright red temple with tall spires and striped domes, white temples behind, rickshaws in front.

    The Lal Mandir, the oldest Jain temple in Delhi, across from the Red Fort.

    2022 · Photograph by Joe Steinbring

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