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Joe Steinbring

Sumida City (Tokyo)

Two sumo wrestlers grapple in the ring beside a referee in a patterned robe, the arena packed.
The September 2024 Grand Sumo Tournament at the Kokugikan.2024 · Photograph by Joe Steinbring
Static offline map showing Sumida City (Tokyo) in Japan with a location pin.

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Sumida is the Tokyo ward across the Sumida River from the center of the city, and Ryogoku, its sumo district, is where the national sumo arena, the Kokugikan, stands. After a morning in Shibuya, I spent the afternoon of September 9, 2024, the second day of the September Grand Sumo Tournament, there. At Ryogoku Station, portraits of the yokozuna, sumo’s grand champions, hang above their handprints, and outside the Kokugikan, every seat had been sold. The bouts run all afternoon, working up through the divisions, and I watched from high in the stands.