Sumida City (Tokyo)

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Sumida is the Tokyo ward across the Sumida River from the center of the city, and Ryogoku, its sumo district, is where the national sumo arena, the Kokugikan, stands. After a morning in Shibuya, I spent the afternoon of September 9, 2024, the second day of the September Grand Sumo Tournament, there. At Ryogoku Station, portraits of the yokozuna, sumo’s grand champions, hang above their handprints, and outside the Kokugikan, every seat had been sold. The bouts run all afternoon, working up through the divisions, and I watched from high in the stands.
Photos from Sumida City (Tokyo)
3 Outside the Kokugikan on a hot, bright afternoon: a huge billboard for the Tokyo Grand Sumo Tournament, September 8 to 22, 2024, with a wrestler charging across it and a red strip announcing that every seat is sold. Tall banners for sumo stables fly on poles to the left, and in front of them a man in a pink shirt sits at a folding table beside a van and a tent hung with Hawaiian shirts, with handwritten price signs.
Sold out, on the second day of the tournament.
The concourse of Ryogoku Station, hung with championship portraits of yokozuna, sumo’s grand champions: Musashimaru in the middle, one arm flung out, and Hakuho on the right, each wearing the white rope and embroidered apron of the ring-entering ceremony, in a wooden frame lettered in black with his name and the tournament he won. The edge of a portrait of Chiyonofuji shows at the left. Below them runs a glass case of yokozuna handprints, and people walk past underneath.
Ryogoku Station, hung with portraits of the yokozuna, sumo’s grand champions.
Me at a photo booth inside the Kokugikan, put up by the Japan Sumo Association and the tea company Ito En. I stand in a black T-shirt and a flat cap, a lanyard around my neck, between life-size photographs of two wrestlers in embroidered ceremonial aprons, one of them with Mount Fuji on it, behind a cut-out apron of my own, green and printed for Ito En’s Oi Ocha tea. A purple curtain hangs above, and a sign at the right invites visitors to join the top division’s ring-entering ceremony.
A photo booth that puts you in the top division’s ring-entering ceremony.
